KAPA‘A — There’s a new pizzeria in town, specializing in old-school, New York-style pies with a Kauaian twist.
Francisco Aguilar and Mikaela Luoma opened Pancho’s Pizza, on Kuhio Highway across from Kapa‘a Beach Park, last month.
It’s the married couple’s first-ever restaurant, although Aguilar is no stranger to the business.
“I grew up in the restaurant industry,” Aguilar, a Kapa‘a High School graduate, told The Garden Island from inside Pancho’s Pizza.
His family owns several eateries on Kaua‘i and the mainland, including Paco’s Tacos.
“That gave me the background to eventually do my own thing,” Aguilar explained. “I’ve always had a passion for pizza.”
Aguilar studied under Tom Iannucci, pastor of Breath of Life Christian Ministries and island pizza whiz, to learn his craft.
Iannucci, a Long Island native, taught his pupil how to make authentic New York slices.
Aguilar has since taken that Atlantic tradition and added a Pacific sensibility.
Local influences include fresh vegetables purchased from the Puhi and Kapa‘a farmers’ markets, put on pies with names like The Wailua, The Kalalau and Kauaian Spicy BBQ.
“It’s a generalized version of what Hawai‘i is: A melting pot of different cultures,” Aguilar said of his approach to cooking.
Pancho’s pies use homemade dough that’s fermented for at least 48 hours and rested for six. The dough is then hand-tossed until thin, with a thick, airy outer crust, just as New York pizza should be.
But Pancho’s Pizza crosses a few culinary Rubicons at this point.
For one, Aguilar puts garlic butter on all his crusts, an East Coast no-no. For another, he’ll happily add pineapple and ham to an order. It’s a topping combination he’s lovingly dubbed “The Mainlander,” to gently educate misinformed tourists.
“I always really loved the toppings,” Aguilar said. “But here in Hawai‘i, it’s not really considered Hawaiian. It’s just pizza with ham and pineapple.”
While Aguilar stepped into the kitchen to prepare an order, Luoma entered the restaurant with their two young children, Amaia and Xavier Aguilar-Luoma.
Luoma, like Aguilar, said family and friends have lent time and expertise to make their new restaurant a reality.
“We’ve been so fortunate to have all this guidance,” she said. “We’re really grateful for this opportunity, and we’re excited for the future and what all of this could lead to. How can we serve our community, our children and grandkids one day?”
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Scott Yunker, reporter, can be reached at 245-0437 or syunker@thegardenisland.com.
