LIHU‘E — They called it a little “hole in the wall” place. But isn’t that the kind of place that usually goes nowhere but up in the estimation of its patrons (while those who have stumbled upon it get to keep it a best-kept secret with no need for reservations)?
La Bamba, the Mexican restaurant that has, since its doors opened in 1996, truly come up in the world, certainly had its day when it fit this description.
It has since come up in the world.
And for owners Ana and Omar Munoz, that, of course, is a good thing.
“Our business birthed from a dream we so desired in our hearts 15 years ago,” Ana said. “Our dream and prayer came true. And the rest is history, by the grace of God.”
The couple, which has been in the food industry for more than 20 years, has taken the simple ingredients of Mexican staples coupled with a gracious ideology and built a successful business.
Those who went to the restaurant around the time of its inception perhaps remember what Ana referred to as the aforementioned “hole in the wall,” on Rice Street in Lihu‘e.
But now the little bistro has a stable number of customers and a slate of signature dishes.
For Ana, those signature items are the burrito verde, chile relleno, tamales and carnitas — all with sauces made from scratch.
But for high-calorie-seeking Mexican foodies, other menu highlights arguably include several dishes that aren’t necessarily waistline-friendly but pleasing to the palate. And much like any number of Mexican-comfort-food-seeking connoisseurs would expect, they’re delicious because of that fact. Such items include the chimichanga bamba (deep fried and wrapped around shredded chicken or beef), the enchilada suizas (covered with a spiced, creamy sauce and, of course, smothered) or the quintessential Tex-Mex old-reliable, the combination plate (made up of a taco, enchilada, burrito, tamale or chile relleno with rice and beans).
But it’s not just combination plates and nachos at La Bamba. The restaurant staff also whips up specials that hearken back to that one classic quality that must exist for archetypal peasant food: creativity with a mere, few ingredients (that are usually the same).
Comedians such as Jim Gaffigan have made fun of Mexican food for being nothing more than beans, tomatoes, rice, cheese, some kind of corn shell and some kind of meat, regardless of the item you’re ordering. But serving up specials such as the sincronizadas (a cross between a soft taco and a quesadilla, with grilled ham thrown in the mix), certainly lends La Bamba some credo.
Ana, from Puerto Rico, and her husband, Omar, from El Salvador, thank God for the fact that they are still operating, they said.
“These past two years have been very challenging for us as business owners,” she said. “Our prayers are a daily thing for us. My heart aches for those business owners who are not in business today because we know what it takes to be a business owner. We’ve lived it.”
For Ana, that has been a test of faith. “It’s all been rewarding. We’ve accomplished one of our callings in life.”
Ana said it couldn’t have been done without her employees.
“I am very proud of our staff,” she said. “They’ve been loyal to us. I’ve taken the role as a ‘parent’ and check with them regularly to see how they are doing in their lives. I take liberty to pray for them as if they were one of my own.”
Noting that she has been known to be a “strict boss,” Ana said she once had a strict boss for whom she is still grateful.
“To this day, I look back with gratitude,” she said. “I always thank my staff for their hard work and encourage them with their strengths. I always challenge them to do their best so they can be proud of themselves.”
And, of course, all this would be moot were it not for her customers.
“We love our local community,” she said. “We are so humbled and honored by their loyalty. We also have had loyal visitors that have been coming back from 10 years ago. They have become family to us.”
