In response to your article on March 10 “Firefighters escort injured hiker” on the front page: I wanted to write a letter of gratitude, and to share my story — because I am that hiker. I planned my trip to
In response to your article on March 10 “Firefighters escort injured hiker” on the front page: I wanted to write a letter of gratitude, and to share my story — because I am that hiker.
I planned my trip to Kaua‘i with my mother six months ago, and for the first part of our adventure here, I wanted to do a solo hike along the Kalalau Trail, through the world-famous Na Pali Coast. And on my first day here and through the first eight hours of my trip, I was not disappointed in the least. Incomparable tropical rain forests; towering, gorgeous, green cliffs; and frolicking whales off the azure coast seemed to greet my every step. Nevertheless, the humidity, the relentless elevation gain/loss and the challenging tread of the trail took its toll on me. Although I have had the pleasure of backpacking through glaciated meadows in my home state of Washington and even the joy of experiencing far-flung Edens such as the Arctic Wildlife Refuge, I have rarely experienced a trail as immediately exhausting as this.
I should have stopped at the breathtaking Hanakoa Valley, where the lure of the spectacular waterfalls and the call of the cool pools below should have been consolation prize enough for the day. But ever the overachiever, I endeavored to end my day at the fabled Kalalau Beach, where I knew even more phenomenal wonders awaited. Therein lay my error; already overexerted, I made a critical mistake near sunset, right after taking a glorious picture of Ni‘ihau, legendary home of the Goddess Pele. One misstep, and I felt the trail give way under my right foot. I tried to balance on the left, but with a heavy backpack, my ankle was no match — and after a snapping sound, I went headfirst down a cliff. Fortunately, another switchback below broke my fall and other than several cuts and a seriously sprained ankle, I escaped with my life intact.
It was after this experience that I began to experience the true aloha spirit which lives on this island — an even greater joy than the Kalalau Trail itself. The first passerby to find me was a local who offered me a fresh, hand-picked guava, and carried my pack back to the Hanakoa Valley for me. He shared his company with me that night, and the next morning — at 8 — I set off on the long, lonely trek back to Ke‘e Beach. Only it didn’t turn out to be lonely at all. So many of the passersby showed so much kindness to me, one even sitting with me for a half an hour about half way back when I felt particularly demoralized, discussing with me how difficult this hike was for her, too. Another cut two walking sticks for me, concluding the ones I found might crack and break. When I had about 3 miles (and seven hours) left, a nice Canadian couple offered to carry my backpack the rest of the way for me. I didn’t want to take advantage of their kindness, but I truly needed it — so swollen was my ankle and so painful was every step. When I later realized I had left my headlamp in my backpack, another kind couple from Oregon offered me theirs — and I left it on their car for them at the trailhead.
News of my travails spread, and word got to my mom — who called 911 around dusk. When the firefighters came after sunset, when I was at a particular emotional low — that was when my prayers were truly answered. The first gentleman told me he was willing to spend the night with me at Hanakapiai Beach, and if I couldn’t go farther, he would call a helicopter in the morning, despite the peril that would have caused the other would-be rescuers. I gratefully declined and he and one other firefighter stayed with me and helped me out off the perilous path until nearly 11 at night, although their families must have waited for them at home, too. They were from “Hanalei-Green” team and I would like to publicly recognize their valor here. Without them, and the many others who exemplified the aloha spirit for which this island is so well-known, I do not think I would have made it out in decent shape, and certainly not in good spirits.
In short, I am so grateful for the beauty which is the Na Pali Coast; the wonderful, kind locals and visitors who frequent it and who offered a helping hand; and the exemplary people whom Kaua‘i has in place for protecting those who wish to experience its blessings. I hope to see many of you again on my next, much more successful trek to the Kalalau Valley. But for now, a deep and heartfelt mahalo to all.
• Chris Maryatt is a resident of Seattle, Wash.
