PRINCEVILLE — Chef Joaquin Menendez is not trying to reinvent the wheel with his food creations. In fact, he has so embraced tradition that he’s drawn inspiration — and recipes — from the culinary traditions of the ancient Mediterranean. Studying
PRINCEVILLE — Chef Joaquin Menendez is not trying to reinvent the wheel with his food creations. In fact, he has so embraced tradition that he’s drawn inspiration — and recipes — from the culinary traditions of the ancient Mediterranean.
Studying the meals served to Alexander the Great and Spain’s King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella, Menendez has applied such simplicity of food preparation at his new Princeville restaurant, Saffron.
Take the grilled chicken, for example. Smothered in a saffron and honey glaze with onions, bell peppers and zucchini, the entree was derived from a meal once served to Caesar.
The menu is a fusion of storied Spanish, Greek and Italian dishes — ideas borne years ago while researching the Roman, Spanish and Macedonian empires.
Menendez was not only impressed by the simplicity of the flavors but also with their ability to stand the test of time.
“It’s peculiar that we still eat a lot of what those people ate,” Menendez said.
In studying the recipes and meals of the day, the importance of saffron in the spice trade was very clear. The aromatic, pungent seasoning best known for adding an orange or deep yellow hue can also pack a punch of flavor, he said, so cooking with saffron is an exercise in balance.
The veteran chef brings a world of experience to his new venture as restaurateur. Born in Spain and raised in Mexico, the U.S. and Canada, Menendez received a master’s from the Ritz Escoffier School in Paris, where the focus was “how honest are you with the food, how truthful are you to the flavors, seasons and products,” he said.
During the six months he spent creating the menu for his new venture, saffron became the theme and balance the philosophy. Balance of old and new. Balance of different Mediterranean cuisines. Balance of culinary artistry with home-cooked soul.
“It’s a little taste of the past and the future in a contemporary atmosphere,” he said.
The menu is divided into three regions: España, Italia and Grecia — all with a variety of starters, entrees and desserts. Diners are encouraged to cross borders and combine the menu items intermittently to a harmonious end. Menendez said he consciously sought to create a menu compatible with family-style eating, or tapas dining, which he felt was absent from the island.
“All together they should serve as a nice meal,” he said, noting that even the desserts have a place on the dinner table.
The theme has even extended to the cocktail menu, with a saffron martini of Tuaca, Grand Marnier, Bailey’s and a splash of creme.
According to Manager
Aaron Feinberg, the fine food and drink selection pair well with the casual atmosphere.
“We are offering something special in this area that doesn’t exist,” Feinberg said.
He noted that the interior has been completely renovated since the last tenant, Sabella’s, left. In addition to the dining area, there is a downstairs lounge and a bar. Saffron caters, accepts to-go orders and is even considering delivery within Princeville — that is, if they can get their hands on a golf cart.
With plans to expand the menu to lunch and breakfast, Menendez said the former will be an easy transition, while the latter will require that Saffron introduce some traditional eats that Americans just can’t do without, such as pancakes and bacon. Still, he won’t stray too far: The simple combination of peppers, olives and mushrooms in an omelet served with fresh-baked focaccia has deep roots in the Mediterranean.
After 20 years in the business, Menendez said he is pleased to be working for himself. Despite the decades of cuts, burns, bruises, long hours and backaches, it’s the passion of the business that drives him.
“Underneath all of this, there is this desire to bring sustenance to humanity in the best way with artistry,” he said.
Saffron is located at 5300 Ka Haku Road in the Pali Ke Kua complex near the Princeville Hotel. Call 826-6225 for more information.
