My first taste of Powerhouse Creamery’s frozen desserts was at this year’s Red Clay Jazz Festival. After one bite, I understood why friends and readers recommended it and was determined to learn more. I went to the Waipa farmers market,
My first taste of Powerhouse Creamery’s frozen desserts was at this year’s Red Clay Jazz Festival. After one bite, I understood why friends and readers recommended it and was determined to learn more. I went to the Waipa farmers market, which is the creamery’s only regular outlet.
It was a steamy Tuesday. The sun felt like a physical force pressing me into the ground: A perfect day for ice cream. At 2 p.m., when the market opens, I walked to the west end of the market and up to Sparrow Fontura’s booth. She sells two scoops for $5 and serves them in cups or Ono Cones, which are made on Oahu.
Fontura grew up in Hanalei and has been making ice cream since 2007, when she learned how to make it at Sabella’s in Princeville. In her spare time, she made batches of old-fashioned ice cream with a hand-cranked machine.
“My deep country ice cream and coconut water sorbets are really fresh, clean, organic and local,” said Fontura. “I call it deep country because I live up Powerhouse Road in Wainiha.”
Fontura buys fruit from the farmers at the Waipa market or harvests it from the hillsides near her home. Flavors change with the seasons and have included caramel banana and coffee mint. She uses vanilla extract made from beans grown on Kauai’s North Shore as well as organic milk and eggs. On the day I go, the special is pineapple, which is dense and creamy, with a hint of sweet from Maui cane sugar.
Coconut Water Sorbet is a blend of Maui cane sugar and fresh coconut water from coconuts harvested along the North Shore. That’s it. Sometimes she flavors it with seasonal fruit such as lilikoi (passion fruit), soursop, pineapple or watermelon.
After turning down eager vegans who wanted an ice cream that contained no animal products, Fontura made a frozen treat with an ice cream texture. When making Toasted Coconut, she starts by tossing coconut flakes with sea salt and sugar and then toasts it in the oven. Organic coconut milk and Maui cane sugar make the base and the flakes are added at the end. The result is a rich coconut flavor and creamy texture with chewy bits of coconut meat.
Coconut Cacao is a blend of organic coconut milk and Peruvian cacao powder. The ingredients are heated over low heat, so the cacao and sugar can break down and meld. With a deep chocolate flavor and smooth texture, you don’t miss the dairy products. All four are delicious, but this is my favorite.
“I want to thank the North Shore community for supporting me,” said Fontura. “They always come and buy from me and they always tell their friends about me. My reputation has gotten me invited to the Mayor’s Garden Invitational, Tahiti Fete, Red Clay Jazz Festival and of course, all of the Waipa events.”
On Sunday, Aug.17, Powerhouse Creamery will feature mango ice cream and sorbets at the Waipa Music and Mango Festival. Island chefs and vendors will sell food inspired by this summer’s mango harvest. There will be a Biggest Mango Contest, mango tastings and live music. The Recipe Contest, of which I am one of three judges, includes four mango categories: pickled, appetizer/entree, jelly/jam/preserve and dessert. For more information, visit waipafoundation.org.
Powerhouse Creamery and be reached at 212-7068 or powerhousecreamery@yahoo.com
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Marta Lane, a food writer on Kauai since 2010, offers farm to fork food tours and is the author of Tasting Kauai: Restaurants – From Food Trucks to Fine Dining, A Guide to Eating Well on the Garden Island. For more information, visit TastingKauai.com.
