Matt Oliver describes Yanagi Sushi Kauai as a sushi bar on wheels. He made the “Dragon Wagon” himself, which is identifiable by dragonheads that emerge from either side of the roof. After graduating from the Sushi Chef Institute in California,
Matt Oliver describes Yanagi Sushi Kauai as a sushi bar on wheels. He made the “Dragon Wagon” himself, which is identifiable by dragonheads that emerge from either side of the roof. After graduating from the Sushi Chef Institute in California, Oliver worked in sushi restaurants before opening his food truck last December in the parking lot of the National Tropical Botanical Gardens in Poipu.
“I learned the art of making Japanese sushi at the Institute,” says Oliver, who was born and raised in Koloa and graduated from Kauai High School. “With that knowledge, I created recipes that we use to make everything from scratch, and to order.”
One of the things Oliver learned is the delicate balance of sour, sweet and salty for his sushi rice. He also adds kombu, an edible kelp that provides dishes with umami flavor, and ages the rice for one month.
“Making good sushi is harder than you think!” Says Oliver, who named his business after the traditional Yanagi raw fish knife. “It’s not easy to get a nice, even roll with even slices, and have it stay together.”
Besides rolls, Oliver offers daily specials made with fundamental Japanese techniques, such as steaming, cooking over an open flame and frying. The Oliver family garden supplies cucumber and green onions, while butter avocados, jalapenos and sprouts are bought from local farmers.
“We get fresh fish from local fishermen,” says Oliver, “and base our menu off what they bring. We have different preparations for ahi, uku (gray snapper) and tako (octopus) and even lobster when it’s in season.”
Just behind the Dragon Wagon, there’s a lily pond surrounded by a wide grassy lawn. My husband Dan and I bring our sushi-filled Styrofoam containers and sit on a bench under the shade of a pine tree and watch the twinkling ocean in the distance.
For Real Crab ($12.50 for 10 pieces) is made with sweet crab, creamy avocado, crunchy cucumber and crisp white onion. Spicy mayo, unagi sauce and sesame seeds add flavor and texture and tobiko (flying fish roe) give a fun pop with every bite.
Oliver makes a daily special for those who don’t care for sushi. Today, it’s onion tempura and crab-stuffed wontons ($6), drizzled with unagi sauce. A nice and chewy batter clings to thick cuts of onion and there’s a side of sweet chili sauce for dunking. Crispy wontons are filled with cream cheese, ginger, cucumbers, onions, chili sauce, tobiko, sesame seeds and sesame oil.
Contrasting textures and flavors come together in the Mega Roll ($12.50 for 10 pieces). Tempura shrimp is tucked next to avocado, cream cheese, wasabi mayo and spicy ahi. It’s finished with a drizzle of unagi sauce and a sprinkling of sesame seeds and tempura “crunchies”.
“We make everything to order,” says Oliver, “so if you have a special request, we can make it. Basically, it’s a sushi bar on wheels!”
• Marta Lane, a food writer on Kauai since 2010, offers farm to fork food tours and is the author of Tasting Kauai: Restaurants – From Food Trucks to Fine Dining, A Guide to Eating Well on the Garden Island. For more information, visit TastingKauai.com.
