Dondero’s serves up five-star Italian classics

I entered the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i with high expectations. I was, after all, about to enter one of the finest Italian eateries on Kaua‘i: Dondero’s. I’ve been to the Hyatt dozens of times, and each time I enter, I am always impressed by its grandeur. This trip was no exception. After passing the lobby, I took a left, walked down a set of stairs and found Dondero’s.

Immediately, I was greeted by two very kind hostesses who led me inside. The tone of the night started off very well, and that tone — of friendly demeanors and perfect service — would continue for the remainder of the night.

I was seated outside, overlooking the magnificent South Shore. Not more than 30 seconds passed before Head Chef Alex Gutierrez made his appearance. He sat down next to me and we talked story for a few minutes before he served me some of the finest Italian dishes I have ever had in my life.

For the past seven years Gutierrez spent his time in California.

“I’m originally from New York,” Gutierrez said. “I’ve been gradually working my way West.”

Gutierrez started off his culinary career as a teenager as a pantry cook, then worked as a pastry chef for 10 years. He made his transition to restaurant cooking three years ago.

“I came to the hotel in October,” Gutierrez said. “I just moved out here and I like it so far. This is my first venture into a solely Italian restaurant, but growing up with a strong Italian background, it helps.”

I asked Gutierrez to serve me whatever he wanted. He, of course, wholeheartedly obliged my request.

The first course he prepared was the unique and onolicous Ahi Tuna Carpaccio, $12.

“The Ahi Tuna Carpaccio is ahi sliced very, very thinly,” he said. “It’s dressed with a panzanella (which is a dry, bread salad), tomato and cucumber. This also comes with a pickled shallot, so it doesn’t overpower the ahi itself — normally, it’s just sliced onion. Its got a little olive oil, basil and parsley.”

 After the Ahi Tuna Carpaccio Gutierrez prepared the Garden Arugula and Roasted Baby Beet salad, $13.

“The beet salad comes with gorgonzola dolce, toasted hazelnuts and arugula,” Gutierrez said. “The gorgonzola dolce is sort of like a blue cheese, but it’s not as strong as most blue cheese — it’s a little milder. (The salad) is also dressed with light balsamic dressing.”

Next up was the Wild Mushroom Risotto, $16.

“The Wild Mushroom Risotto has carnaroli rice, which is a very traditional rice for making risotto.” Gutierrez said. “It’s cooked with mushroom stock, shallots, finished off with a bit of mascarpone and parmesan.”

You can’t have an Italian meal without pasta. Gutierrez prepared his favorite pasta at Dondero’s: Capelli D’Angelo con Pomodoro, $22.

“It’s roasted cherry tomatoes with garlic and shallots, angel hair pasta (which is cappellini) and basil,” Gutierrez said. “It’s tossed together with a little bit of olive oil and finished off with a little bit of balsamic reduction.”

At this point, I thought the meal concluded. Oh, how I was wrong. Chef Gutierrez surprised me with the fish of the day: Grilled Opa with sardinian fregola risotto, grilled radicchio, Arugula, cipolline onion and topped with roasted sweet squash. The fish of the day is marked at $34, and the type of fish varies.

The last course of the evening was a light dessert. Gutierrez insisted that I sample the delicious Cannoli, $10. I really didn’t have room for any more food, but Gutierrez prepared a small enough portion that was perfect. The cannoli at Dondero’s comes in a crispy shell and is served with orange and chocolate scented mascarpone.

That was it. I was stuffed and was extremely satisfied. I was treated like royalty by everyone, the food was beyond exquisite and I now know where to go when I’m craving some upscale, Italian cuisine.

Dondero’s, located on 1571 Po‘ipu Road, is found inside the Grand Hyatt Resort. It is open daily from 6 to 10 p.m. For reservations call (808) 240-6456 or email conciergekauai@hyatt.com.