Smoke means good food

KAPA‘A — The first thing you’ll likely notice about one of Kapa‘a’s newest roadside restaurants is the barbecue aroma drifting in smoky clouds down Kuhio Highway.

As you near the corner of Kou Street, you’ll discover the smoke is emanating from two steel drums in front of a little red shack with a cartoon sign of a surfing chicken tucked in the barrel of a wave. You have arrived at Chicken in a Barrel.

“This little restaurant has always been a dream of mine,” owner Mike Pierce of Princeville said. “It’s something the family can work in, including the grandkids, and you know what, it’s a lot of fun.”

Drums filled with kiawe logs they cut themselves, light charcoal and a secret recipe dry rub provide the mesquite flavor of their tender meats that are suspended over the coals on bars and hooks. The drum is covered with a lid, which allows the meat to smoke as it cooks.

It’s hard not be blown away by the unusual flavors of the chicken, beef, pork and spare ribs. It’s even harder to fight off the cravings for more that kick in later. Without a doubt, their food is addictive — and they know it.

The first day they opened for business last May, they gave away 100 free meals knowing that people would come back for more.

“They lined up down the highway for our food,” Pierce said. They were off to a good start. But a few days later, the Health Department showed up, wanted to see permits they didn’t possess and ordered them to close down for a mandatory inspection.

It took three and half months to get through the permitting process alone, Pierce said.

“It was tedious, but we got it done, and the county was willing to work with us,” he said.

Pierce chalks it up as a learning experience that has made him appreciate how difficult it is to open a new business on Kaua‘i.

On Oct. 8, Chicken in a Barrel finally reopened. And this Friday and Saturday, Pierce and his family will host a grand opening party that will feature a live band, promotional offerings like a free soda with purchase, and Pierce’s son-in-law dressed up in a chicken costume.

Entrees range from $9.50 for a chicken plate to $14 for the sampler plate of chicken, beef, pork and spare ribs. They include sides of brown rice and Pierce’s wife Anne’s chili beans that she doctors up with chunks of ground beef, bacon and tomatoes. A variety of barbecue sauces are available for dipping.

Pierce, who also owns Pierce Construction, said they keep their menu simple because they believe in doing just a few things well instead of trying to do it all.

One thing they did add though — the $4.80 barrel roll, which is a tortilla stuffed with shredded chicken, beef or pork, caramelized onions, bell peppers and cheese.

“We created the $4.80 barrel because I wanted people to be able to put $5 down on the counter and have something,” Pierce said. It comes to $4.99 after taxes.

To-go orders can be called in and catering is available.

The first time he prepared meat this way was 30 years ago for his sister’s wedding. He used a 60-gallon Army fuel drum to cook a pig. Everyone liked it so much, he started using the drum as his barbecue at home.

The idea of opening his own business evolved when he started barbecuing for church outreach gatherings at the beach that drew as many as 200 people.

Now, after only a little more than a month of being officially in the restaurant business, Pierce said he is thinking about expanding.

“We’re looking for another place,” his daughter Nicole Pepper said, “somewhere between Kilauea and Hanalei. My husband has this vision that it will become like another Bubba’s.”

Pierce said, “My goal has always been to survive by making locals happy. Sure, we hope it makes some money, but we’re taking our time and want to do it right. I believe if everything you make is good, people will come back.”

Chicken in a Barrel is located at 4-1586 Kuhio Highway near Coconut Coasters in Kapa‘a. Hours are 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays and closed on Sundays. Call 823-0780 for more info.