Through the translucent, blue-plastic window of an ‘88 Grumman aluminum step-van, Barr Surles takes orders for meals that made him famous on the North Shore. From this humble lodging emerge plates with more then eye-appeal — but also the clean
Through the translucent, blue-plastic window of an ‘88 Grumman aluminum step-van, Barr Surles takes orders for meals that made him famous on the North Shore. From this humble lodging emerge plates with more then eye-appeal — but also the clean and crisp flavors of a traditional Mexican fish platter.
Anini Beach Lunch Shack has been feeding Kaua‘i locals and tourists for more then six years. Surles’ specialty — fish taco plates. He makes his own salsas, relishes and sauces.
One difference between his taco and a Mexican fish taco is his signature jalepeno cilantro sauce that accompanies many of his dishes. “In Mexico they usually have a lime mayonnaise,” he said.
Everything else about a Surles’ taco plate holds to tradition: shredded cabbage, salsa fresca and corn tortillas.
While the sauces on the tacos, flautas, or burrito may have a bite of heat, Surles has a vast selection of bottled sauces for those brave enough to dare.
Just to name a few: Trappey’s Red Devil Cayenne, Belize-style Marie Sharps, Yucatan Sunshine, Arizona Gunslinger and Jufran Banana Sauce. “Customers send me sauces from all over,” Surles said.
One homemade habanero relish stands out among the rest. This is a Surles original that comes from homegrown peppers. “I also make a chipolte chile sauce,” he said.
Surles runs his business with all the simplicity of a Zen practitioner. But this is only after decades of refining his attitude and lifestyle.
“I’ve managed a bunch of restaurants. Keep it as simple as you can and everybody’s stoked,” he said. “If you have a good product, you can kill it.”
Nodding toward the shoreline he added, “Location helps.”
“Me and a lot of my surf buddies are in this business.”
Surles is referring to the restaurant business. “We used to work nights, surf all day, and eat for free.”
Today, though, this 35-year resident gets his water time early in the day. You can count on his van being parked at the south end of Anini Beach Tuesday through Friday. His price range is from $4-$12.
“That utility pole there,” he said, pointing, “dictates where I park.”
“Looks like it’s going to be an easy day,” Surles said from beneath his ball cap. “I may get a little beat up at lunch by the construction guys, but maybe I’ll get to dig out early and go surfing.”
Savage Shrimp, the white wagon you pass in Po‘ipu on your way to Spouting Horn, displays a logo of an angelic shrimp crowned with a halo. But the garlic drifting from this pristine wagon bodes a temptation of another caliber.
If the aroma isn’t reason enough to pull a U-turn, news of the superior product should be.
Susan Allyn offers three kinds of shrimp scampi from the back of her kitchen-on-wheels: traditional garlic scampi, Brazilian — think coconut milk and cilantro — and a hot and spicy version.
Allyn discovered that the smell of garlic traveling on the breeze in Po‘ipu was its own reward. “When I first started, I didn’t even put a sign up,” she said.
She opened Savage Shrimp on a shoestring, so she relied completely on word-of-mouth when she first opened. “I had to hope my food would sell itself.”
Today, this long-time chef and previous owner of two O‘ahu restaurants attributes her success to the folks who frequent her shrimp shack. “As good as my shrimp is, that is how good my customers are,” Allyn said.
“The first couple of years I had two other jobs,” she said. “Now, I have regulars from all over the world.”
“Then last year Lonely Planet travel guide featured my lunch wagon,” said Allyn. “I’m at roadfood.com too. But if it wasn’t for my customers, I wouldn’t be here.”
Her solitary life in the kitchen isn’t a lonely one. Allyn is a self-described “Jesus freak.”
“I don’t do this alone,” she said. “This is Jesus’ business.”
Savage Shrimp sees its share of celebrities. “I get a lot of rock stars and actors,” Allyn said. “This one guy from the Red Hot Chili Peppers was here getting married.”
Cheryl Amyx, a visitor from Idaho, said she’s been to Kaua‘i seven times in two years. “I’ve always wanted to stop here,” Amyx said. “I did for the first time yesterday. Now, look, I’m already back.”
Allyn also serves fresh coconut. “You just poke a hole in it and put in a straw.”
Her average price is $11-$12 and she offers a kama‘aina discount. Allyn serves lunch Tuesday through Saturday.
Allyn’s traditional scampi recipe is one she perfected over a few years. Her dishes are served with a mixture of white and brown rice and a side of homemade coleslaw finished with Auntie Lilikoi dressing.
Before long, her shrimp marinade will be available for purchase.
Pat Grenz is a newcomer to lunch wagon culture on Kaua‘i. Pat’s Taqueria has been parked at Hanalei Bay a scant 10 months.
This Southern Colorado native moved to the island to surf and decided to create a business that would support his lifestyle. “My surf buddies talked me into opening up,” said Grenz.
He takes a minimalist approach to his menu with burritos and tacos. His signature sauce is a southwestern green chile. Prices average $8. He’s open seven days a week.
If your travels take you to the end of the road on the North Shore without a sack lunch, don’t panic. The Ha‘ena Beach Park lunch wagon that serves up everything from fresh Kaua‘i pineapple slices to crab cake sandwiches. On any given Saturday there’s a line five keiki thick ordering shave ice.
Prices range from $2 for a hot-dog to $7 for a kalua pig sandwich. The wagon is there seven days a week.
